Hello all,
I cannot even begin to do justice recanting how my day started, but I'll try. Before breakfast I made my way down to Pacific Beach here in San Diego to surf with one of my best friends in the world, Pete. Had the day ended right there, it would have already been amazing. We didn't get there at the crack of dawn or anything but it was still a gorgeous time of day. After catching a few mediocre waves on Pete's longboard, we switched boards. (All my surfing career, not illustrious at all I might add, has taken place on longboards) Pete took the longboard and I took his shortboard. For non surfers, I guess the difference would be longboards are like cruising on the open road in a hybrid minivan with the wind gently blowing through your hair do to an open window. Somewhat comfortable and you can cruise forever. Shortboards, a convertible on a winding road leaving you with Gary Busey mugshot hair. (google image that if you don't get the reference) No real surprise, the convertible of surfboards is more difficult to drive but a lot more fun. After about 30 minutes of desperately trying to get my hair out of my eyes and keeping my balance long enough to stick a wave, it happened! I caught my first ever wave while riding a shortboard! It was beyond incredible. I think one of the first rules of surfing is act like you have been there before. That catching that last wave was no big deal. Well, I broke that rule immediately. Shortly after dropping into the wave, I turned back out towards the break and gave Pete a fist pump with one hand and a thumbs up with the other. This led to me wiping out big time! I didn't care. I caught the wave. I caught the thrill.
Yesterday I finished reading West of Jesus by Steven Kotler, given to me by Pete back in April shortly before I left The States. This is Kotler's tale about finding peace and fulfillment in life through surfing and looking at the bigger picture. Today, I caught the wave of my life. Coincidence? Sh*t luck? Who knows, but I caught the wave. For a moment, the world stood still. It was just me, my board, and the wave. It was as if I was on planet earth all by myself. The wave was nothing compared to the monsters others have caught. Truthfully, it wasn't a monster at all. But, it was a monster to me and I'll never forget it. Thanks for taking me surfing Pete. Then again, thanks for everything.
This afternoon, I did some serious damage at the local grocery store and ate about $15 worth of groceries for lunch.
After he got off work, Pete picked me up for our 5PM tee time. We hit up the Coronado Golf Club just outside of San Diego. The course was right on the ocean and had some great views. We finished 14 holes before nightfall set in. Unfortunately, not much time for picture taking. 38 on the front 9 for me. I had 3 bogies and they were all a direct result of Pete peer pressuring me to hit Driver off tees I shouldn't have. Damn him.
After golf, we met up with Amanda for dinner. She is an absolute gem. How in the world did Pete pull it off? Who knows.
Today, like some others I have been lucky enough to have over the past few months, was one that I never wanted to end. I couldn't have asked for anything more out of a day. Southern California was showing me its best, and I was blessed with great company. What else could I ask for?
Mark/Chops
PS I hate to give him credit, but Peter Christopher Sylvester took his board into the barrel of a wave today and came out clean on the other end. I was very very impressed. I need to learn how to do that. Pete's such a show off.
I cannot even begin to do justice recanting how my day started, but I'll try. Before breakfast I made my way down to Pacific Beach here in San Diego to surf with one of my best friends in the world, Pete. Had the day ended right there, it would have already been amazing. We didn't get there at the crack of dawn or anything but it was still a gorgeous time of day. After catching a few mediocre waves on Pete's longboard, we switched boards. (All my surfing career, not illustrious at all I might add, has taken place on longboards) Pete took the longboard and I took his shortboard. For non surfers, I guess the difference would be longboards are like cruising on the open road in a hybrid minivan with the wind gently blowing through your hair do to an open window. Somewhat comfortable and you can cruise forever. Shortboards, a convertible on a winding road leaving you with Gary Busey mugshot hair. (google image that if you don't get the reference) No real surprise, the convertible of surfboards is more difficult to drive but a lot more fun. After about 30 minutes of desperately trying to get my hair out of my eyes and keeping my balance long enough to stick a wave, it happened! I caught my first ever wave while riding a shortboard! It was beyond incredible. I think one of the first rules of surfing is act like you have been there before. That catching that last wave was no big deal. Well, I broke that rule immediately. Shortly after dropping into the wave, I turned back out towards the break and gave Pete a fist pump with one hand and a thumbs up with the other. This led to me wiping out big time! I didn't care. I caught the wave. I caught the thrill.
Yesterday I finished reading West of Jesus by Steven Kotler, given to me by Pete back in April shortly before I left The States. This is Kotler's tale about finding peace and fulfillment in life through surfing and looking at the bigger picture. Today, I caught the wave of my life. Coincidence? Sh*t luck? Who knows, but I caught the wave. For a moment, the world stood still. It was just me, my board, and the wave. It was as if I was on planet earth all by myself. The wave was nothing compared to the monsters others have caught. Truthfully, it wasn't a monster at all. But, it was a monster to me and I'll never forget it. Thanks for taking me surfing Pete. Then again, thanks for everything.
This afternoon, I did some serious damage at the local grocery store and ate about $15 worth of groceries for lunch.
After he got off work, Pete picked me up for our 5PM tee time. We hit up the Coronado Golf Club just outside of San Diego. The course was right on the ocean and had some great views. We finished 14 holes before nightfall set in. Unfortunately, not much time for picture taking. 38 on the front 9 for me. I had 3 bogies and they were all a direct result of Pete peer pressuring me to hit Driver off tees I shouldn't have. Damn him.
After golf, we met up with Amanda for dinner. She is an absolute gem. How in the world did Pete pull it off? Who knows.
Today, like some others I have been lucky enough to have over the past few months, was one that I never wanted to end. I couldn't have asked for anything more out of a day. Southern California was showing me its best, and I was blessed with great company. What else could I ask for?
Mark/Chops
PS I hate to give him credit, but Peter Christopher Sylvester took his board into the barrel of a wave today and came out clean on the other end. I was very very impressed. I need to learn how to do that. Pete's such a show off.
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| ON THE WAY TO GOLF. THIS IS THE BRIDGE THAT " THE MAN PUNTED BAXTER OFF OF. HE KICKED HIM. HE KICKED HIM WITH HIS FOOT!" -RON BURGUNDY, ANCHORMAN. |
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| THE GUY WE PLAYED GOLF WITH TOOK THIS PICTURE. HE IS GETTING AN F. THE BACKGROUND WAS ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS AND THE GUY ZOOMS IN CLOSE ENOUGH TO SEE OUR PIMPLES?? RIDICULOUS
The Future Is No Place To Place Your Better Days
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